#ADDING A 24 VOLT ALTERNATOR GENERATOR#
#ADDING A 24 VOLT ALTERNATOR UPGRADE#

Looks like the 3010 has a different circuit breaker upgrade part number than the 4010 I had read the newer tractors had circuit breakers by the solenoid and a google search lead me to this thread I am planning to add circuit breakers - mounted on the old voltage regulator plate by the 24 volt alternator & circuit breakers by the solenoid. I have no idea where it should have connected to under the dash. The same stud that the positive battery cable goes to.Īny ideas what the white wire was for? Could that possibly have been the wire that should have had the fusible link? I am planning to run a 10 gauge blue wire from the negative on the alternator to the large stud on the solenoid. I am running the heavy wire to the 3/16 stud with the brown wire on the solenoid. I have a 60 amp mountable fuse holder to put inline with the brown wire. I am guessing that is the main part of the kit. I already have 20 amp 60 second circuit breakers on hand. I was planning to add a circuit breaker for both the brown and blue wires somewhere near the solenoid.

#ADDING A 24 VOLT ALTERNATOR GENERATOR#

The generator was 20 amp? The alternator is 70 amps. I am planning to run heavier wires for everything. The white wire from the alternator goes to the generator light and the instructions said to change the other wire that goes to the generator light - from the key switch - from negative feed to a positive feed. That wire has a female spade connector on the end. There is a white wire that was cut off sticking through the same hole as the blue, brown and yellow wires going to the solenoid. Both cables are bolted to the frame with one bolt. One cable from each battery - one negative and one positive are tied together at the frame. There is a positive battery cable also going to that stud. The blue wire from the generator - now alternator - goes to the negative stud on the alternator to the large - 3/8' stud on the starter solenoid. The ground from one of the batteries goes to the battery cable stud on the starter. The brown wire from the generator - now alternator - goes from the positive on the alternator to the small stud on the solenoid - that stud also has a short wore that runs to the 3/8' battery cable stud on the starter. I do not have the green plate by the solenoid. There is no small wire with fusible link to anywhere from either battery. I do not know how much difference there is between this 3010 and my 4010 I would have gone the 12 volt route, but the starter was recently rebuilt and I am hoping the 24 volt starter and alternator outlast me. I have a 1963 John Deere 4010 diesel wide front I am installing a 24 volt alternator. I'll see if I can post some starter picture and generator/regulator wiring. The tap wire/ground that should have been fused appeared odd to to me since it was coming off a positive post, but grounded to the frame. I'm planning on taking the plunge to buy two new suitcase strongbox batteries, but I'm trying to sort out this wiring and try to get some much improved cable ends w/out trying to re-wire with new heavy gauge wiring. He had replaced the ends with the 'bolt-on' cable ends which deteriorated quickly and contributed to the battery/electrical system to fail. The lights had not worked in recent years and I can't speak for the oil pressure light. The tractor was purchased new in 1962/1963 (not sure) and I don't recall the fuel gauge ever working. Due to the age of the tractor, I suspect my Dad, made an improvement with a piece of wire he had handy. The (small wire) attached to ground from the positive post on the left battery does not have a fuse. Covered by a three-year, 350,000-mile warranty (unlimited miles for bus applications).I follow your comments precisely and yes, you grasp exactly what I have seen.Remote sense capable for reduced battery charge time and.Dual cable terminals for extended coverage and convenience.Auxiliary Draft Cooling design to control front bearing temperature.eCoated heavy duty housing offers corrosion and vibration resistance.Isolated Ground Technology to protect engines from electrolytic damage.Operating temperature range from -40° to 257☏.Prestolite’s Isolated Ground Technology to eliminate stray voltage.Auxiliary Draft Cooling design for temperature resistance.Features and specs of the IdlePro Extreme 24V, 250-amp alternator, according to the company, include the following: Prestolite says that the new alternator is optimized to withstand the rigors of severe use and is an ideal replacement option for demanding applications like bus/motor coach, marine, mining and off-highway construction. Prestolite Electric has added a 24V, 250-amp alternator to its Leece-Neville IdlePro Extreme range.

Adding a 24 volt alternator